Natural Oils for Hair: Castor, Argan & Coconut Oil Compared
Posted by Hana Bicurri on 19th May 2024
In short: castor, argan and coconut oil all care for hair in different ways. Castor oil is the richest and works best as a weekly pre-wash treatment for the scalp and lengths. Argan oil is lighter and suits dry ends as a finishing oil. Coconut oil helps hair hold on to its protein but can feel heavy on fine hair. None of them is a medical treatment for hair loss.
Why natural oils are back in hair care
Oiling hair is one of the oldest beauty rituals in the world, and social media has made it popular again. Oils coat the hair fibre, help reduce moisture loss and friction, and give a soft, glossy finish. Used on the scalp, a rich oil and a few minutes of massage make a relaxing weekly routine.
Castor oil
Castor oil is pressed from the seeds of the castor plant (Ricinus communis). About 85 to 90 percent of it is a single fatty acid, ricinoleic acid, which makes castor oil much thicker than other plant oils.
- Best for: a weekly pre-wash treatment on the scalp and lengths, dry or coarse hair, brows and lashes.
- Texture: very thick and sticky, so it is easier to use blended with a lighter oil.
- Good to know: it needs a thorough wash afterwards, ideally shampoo applied to dry, oiled hair first.
Pharmaceutical-grade vs Jamaican black castor oil
Clear castor oil is pressed from raw seeds. Pharmaceutical-grade oil is tested against a pharmacopoeia standard for purity, so you know exactly what is in the bottle. Jamaican black castor oil is made from roasted seeds, which gives it its dark colour and nutty smell. Both condition hair; the choice is mainly about texture and scent.
Argan oil
- Best for: dry, frizzy or heat-styled ends, as a leave-in finishing oil.
- Texture: light and quickly absorbed, rich in vitamin E and fatty acids.
- Good to know: a few drops are enough. Too much can look greasy on fine hair.
Coconut oil
- Best for: a pre-wash treatment on medium to thick hair.
- Texture: solid at room temperature, melts in the hand.
- Good to know: its lauric acid helps reduce protein loss during washing, but it can build up and weigh fine hair down.
Quick comparison
| Oil | Texture | Use it | Best hair type |
|---|---|---|---|
| Castor | Very rich | Before washing, weekly | Dry, coarse, curly |
| Argan | Light | After washing, on ends | All, especially dry ends |
| Coconut | Medium, solid when cool | Before washing | Medium to thick |
How to use castor oil, step by step
- Divide dry hair into sections.
- Apply a few drops along each parting and onto the lengths.
- Massage the scalp gently with your fingertips for a few minutes.
- Leave it on for one to three hours.
- Apply shampoo to the dry, oiled hair first, then add water, lather and rinse. Repeat if needed.
Once a week is enough for most people. For a full routine, read How to Use Castor Oil for Hair.
Does castor oil help hair grow?
This is the most searched question about castor oil, so here is an honest answer. There are no robust clinical studies showing that castor oil, or any other natural oil, makes hair grow faster or thicker. What oils do well is care for the hair you have: they condition the lengths, help reduce breakage from brushing and styling, and leave hair softer and shinier. If you notice hair loss or thinning, please see a dermatologist, as it can have many causes.
Safety tips
- Patch test on the inside of your arm 24 hours before first use.
- Do not apply oils to broken or irritated skin.
- Keep oils away from your eyes.
- Stop using a product if you notice redness or itching.
Frequently asked questions
Which oil is best for dry ends?
A light oil such as argan, applied to damp or dry ends after washing. Our GOLD Eliksir is a finishing oil with argan oil for exactly this.
Can I mix castor oil with other oils?
Yes, and for most people it is easier to use that way. Hair Eliksir blends pharmaceutical-grade castor oil from Germany with extra virgin olive oil from Italy and lavender oil, so it spreads easily and rinses out more easily than pure castor oil.
Which shampoo should I use after an oil treatment?
A deep-cleansing shampoo removes the oil in one or two washes. Our sulfate-free Professional Shampoo is made for hair and scalp that get oily quickly.